For those travelling along the east coast who endeavour to venture off the usual route, courtesy of the Lonely Planet Guide's understandably summarised recommendations, there are a good few little gems that await discovery.
I'm not going to proclaim Coffs Harbour is one of these. On the contrary, I was a little disappointed with my visit there, however (there's always a but), Coff's neighbour Sawtell was, for me, a different experience altogether.
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| Coffs Harbour from the look-out point |
I arrived at Coffs on Friday (5th Apr) evening. It was dark and pouring with rain (of the sub-tropical variety, none of that English piddly stuff us Brits are used to). The YHA in Coffs is very large and on my visit, very quiet. There wasn't so much as a hello from my room mates, merely an inaudible grunt from a day sleeper I had disturbed upon putting my heavy bags down. The kitchen was a bit grimy and the hobs weren't working due to a routine (so I learnt) theft of kitchen lighters. Again, there wasn't much conversation here either. The lounge room was empty, bar one person plugged-in to their laptop, skyping back home. Probably moaning about the lack of conversation in the hostel.
I ate an uncooked dinner and decided to walk to the town jetty to get some fresh air and shake the feeling of dread. It's really strange how first impressions can shape our emotions. I have always been an emotional person, quick to judge and, shamefully, sometimes negatively so. It appears to be of paramount importance that I arrive somewhere new under idealistic conditions which I have come to learn most inexperienced travellers do. We all learn, right?
I phoned Luca whilst aimlessly wondering in the dark toward the jetty. The harbour looked nice, from what I could make out and the evening, whilst certainly wet, was nicely mild. No one appeared to be dinning out in Coffs on a Tuesday night. I haven't yet mustered the courage to drink at bars on my own. I walked back to the hostel and sought my secret weapon (always have one of these whilst travelling)... My sachet of instant hot chocolate.
I sat down in the common room with Irish Sean, my friend and travel companion from Pt Macquarie. He turned to me and said, 'This place is rubbish, there's no atmosphere and no one talks, I hate it here already and we've only just got here'. Another quick yet justified judgement! I recommended a hot chocolate. He opted for the solo drink in a nearby bar...
The next morning I got up and walked to Mutton Bird Island. One of the few recommended things to do in Coffs. I started my walk in the drizzle and ended it in torrential rain. I could hardly see my hand in front of my face, let alone the beautiful, picturesque sea views the LPG promised me. On a positive note, walking in heavy rain is very fun when you fully commit to it - coming to think of it, my mum always enjoys a good walk in the rain.
I skipped the morning shower (nature had provided that one free of charge) and gobbled up some breaky. Sean and I walked into town via the Botanic Gardens whilst enjoying a second cold shower. Note to self: Do not wear big woolly jumpers in the rain, they are not waterproof and they do not self drain, I bared great resemblance to a chimpanzee toward the end of my walk, practically dragging my water-logged sleeves behind me. The borrowed bin bag hood was effective but hardly attractive - unless you're into the KKK thing? Hardly.
The town is about a 5km walk from the jetty. It's OK. Nothing out of the ordinary. Got a good coffee and another emergency subway and made my way back to the hostel where I was picked up by my knights in shining armour, Phil and Robyn.
Sawtell
15km South of Coffs Harbour is a small little town called Sawtell. The beaches are beautiful, the houses neat and humble and the high street quaint. Everyone was friendly and best of all was my accommodation.Bruce, our Stubbo farmer had provided me with contact details for his sister-in-law and her husband. They picked me up from the hostel (I was sad to say goodbye - not) and bought me back to their beautiful house in Sawtell, where they had kindly prepared their guest house for me. The guest house was at the bottom of their garden complete with bedroom, kitchenette and bathroom. A welcome change from the over crowded 10 bed hostel dorms I have become accustomed to.
The three of us had dinner together and enjoyed a good natter. Phil is a physics professor and Robyn a secondary school maths teacher. A little clout between the two of them, that's for sure.On Sunday morning I walked the 15km beach trail from Sawtell to Coffs. The walk was amazing. No incredible. To be honest, words don't do any justice, look at the photos.
I arrived at Coffs to a lovely little market by the town jetty, which contrary to the day before, was pleasantly sunny and pleasingly full of life and bustle. I got a juice and browsed around a little then met Robyn in town after lunch. I admit to lounging around quite a lot that evening, without the least guilt - feeling justified after my mammoth walk. I was teated to another big dinner and got in an early night.
On Monday I cooked us all omelet, which I really had to argue the pleasure of. Robyn and Phil are extremely hospitable (and stubborn) hosts!
I spent the entire day on the beach reading and swimming, breaking only to walk up into the town to enjoy a yummy lunch and coffee. I am also a little ashamed but excited to report back on my first swim in the ocean since getting back to the coast from the farm. The water in upper NSW is really warm! What a pleasant surprise. The water in southern NSW isn't exactly cold but it's definitely a refreshing experience that we've got used to.I was kindly offered a lift to my next destination by Robyn and Phil. They assured me that they were due a road trip and were planning on spending the night in Iluka, the neighbouring town to Yamba, which is where I am currently and indeed the reason behind my recent radio silence.
With special thanks to: Robyn and Phil for my wonderful stay in Sawtell. The favour will be very happily repaid upon your next visit to Europe. And yes, I will drag you round the Natural History Museum. And yes Phil, we will watch lots of Dr Who!
